Ultimate Guide to Built-up roofing (BUR)

Built-up roofing (BUR): Costs, Pros & Cons, Lifespan, and Installation

Built-up roofing, or BUR, is a traditional flat or low-slope roofing system that combines multiple plies of asphalt-saturated felt with a bitumen adhesive, topped with a protective cap sheet and ballast. It's been a dependable choice for decades, known for waterproofing reliability and versatility.

What BUR is

• A reinforced, multi-layer roof assembly built from alternating plies of asphalt-saturated felt and hot-applied or cold-applied bitumen.
• Finished with a cap sheet (granulated, smooth, or reflective) and often covered with gravel ballast or a reflective coating.
• Primarily used on flat or low-slope roofs where long-term water resistance matters.

Costs

• Typical installed range: about $5 to $9 per square foot (roughly $500 to $900 per 100 sq ft), depending on local labor rates, roof size, and complexity.
• Cost factors to expect:
• Number of plies (3-4 is common; more plies = higher cost)
• Type of cap sheet and ballast choice
• Roof size, accessibility, and existing deck condition
• Whether old roofing is removed or a recover is done
• Local climate and permitting requirements

Pros

• Excellent waterproofing with multiple protection layers
• Good resistance to wind uplift when properly installed
• Durable and proven long-term performance
• Relatively easy to inspect from above and replace sections as needed
• Fire resistance is generally favorable when installed correctly
• Can be configured with reflective cap sheets to improve energy efficiency

Cons

• Heavy system; requires a strong deck and structural tolerance
• Installation can be lengthy and weather dependent
• Requires skilled labor and proper bitumen heating or cold adhesive application
• Gravel ballast, if used, adds weight and may require periodic maintenance to prevent debris buildup
• Punctures or damage from foot traffic or hail may necessitate more extensive repairs

Lifespan

• Typical lifespan: 15 to 30 years, influenced by climate, roof slope, maintenance, and ply count.
• Factors that shorten or extend life:
• Climate extremes (heat, UV exposure, heavy rain)
• Proper flashing around penetrations and edges
• Regular inspections and timely repairs
• Presence and condition of ballast or cap sheet
• With routine maintenance and timely repair, BUR can outlast many alternative flat roofing options.

Installation

• A typical BUR installation sequence (simplified):

1) Inspect and repair the roof deck; remove debris and moisture, replace damaged decking.

2) If needed, install insulation or a cover board to improve energy performance and provide a flat surface.

3) Apply the first ply: asphalt-saturated felt over hot asphalt or with cold adhesive, ensuring proper nailing or bonding.

4) Add additional plies (2–3 more) with overlaps and inter-ply bonding to create a continuous waterproof barrier.

5) Install the cap sheet (granulated or reflective) on top of the plies, sealing edges and seams.

6) Place ballast (gravel) over the cap sheet or apply a reflective coating as specified; ensure even coverage for UV protection and load distribution.

7) Seal perimeters, flashing, penetrations, and parapets; perform a final drainage check and inspect for any loose ballast or exposed fasteners.

Who it's best for

• Homeowners with flat or low-slope roofs who value proven waterproofing and long-term durability
• Projects where a ballast system or cap sheet is desirable for UV protection and weather resistance
• Homes in areas with moderate to severe weather where wind uplift protection is important

Why homeowners choose BUR

• Trusted, long-track record on many residential and commercial flat roofs
• Strong waterproofing performance across a range of climates
• Compatible with repaired or retrofitted roof decks; can often be installed over existing layers with proper assessment
• Easy to inspect and repair localized areas without a full roof teardown

What Is Built-up roofing (BUR) Roofing?

Comprehensive Definition

Built-up roofing (BUR) is a traditional flat or low-slope roof system made from multiple overlapping plies of asphalt-saturated felts or fabric, bonded together with hot-application asphalt or coal tar. A BUR system creates a durable, reinforced membrane that's designed to resist water intrusion across seams and joints. The top surface is finished with a protective layer—usually mineral granules or a ballast material such as gravel or a reflective coating—to shield the asphalt layers from UV exposure and weather. Modern BUR also uses fiberglass or organic felts as reinforcement. It blends waterproofing, toughness, and a long track record that many homeowners recognize.

Common Types / Variants

• Coal tar BUR (older variant; less common today due to environmental considerations)
• Asphalt BUR with felt plies (saturated or impregnated felts)
• Fiberglass-reinforced BUR (common and durable)
• Organic felt BUR (less common now, gradually replaced by fiberglass)
• Hot-applied BUR (asphalt or coal tar applied with heat) and cold-applied variants
• Gravel-ballasted BUR (top layer with mineral granules or loose gravel)
• Reflective/top-coated BUR (with white or light-colored coatings to improve reflectivity)

Appearance & Styles

• Typically a flat or very low-slope roof with a multi-ply, slightly textured surface
• Top surface often shows a gravelly or mineral-grain finish, or a smooth, coated finish
• Colors skew toward dark grays or blacks, though ballast and coatings can alter the look
• Gravel ballast adds weight and a characteristic “tar-and-gravel” appearance

How It's Installed

1. Prepare the substrate: repair decking, clean, and dry the surface

2. Apply primer or tack coat if required

3. Install the first ply using hot asphalt or coal tar, embedding it into the adhesive

4. Add successive plies (typically 3–4 total), each laminated with hot adhesive

5. Place and embed the cap sheet or top plies with the final asphalt layer

6. Add ballast (gravel) or apply a protective coating/granules

7. Optional: install a reflective coating to improve energy efficiency

• Note: Work is temperature- and weather-dependent; professional teams use safety procedures and proper ventilation due to hot asphalt and fumes

Typical Lifespan

• Commonly 15–30 years, depending on climate, maintenance, and workmanship
• Higher durability with fiberglass reinforcement and quality cap sheets
• Maintenance, timely repairs, and a proper gravel ballast can extend service life

Key Physical Properties

• Weight per square: dry BUR typically 6–12 psf (per ply); with multiple plies and ballast, 15–25+ psf is common
• Fire rating: commonly Class A when installed to spec; depends on materials and cap sheet
• Impact resistance: good, especially with ballast; performance varies by reinforcement and surface
• Flexibility / rigidity: flexible in warm weather, but can become rigid in cold; proper detailing helps
• Thermal conductivity: moderate; asphalt is a relatively heat-absorbing material; reflective coatings improve performance
• Wind uplift resistance: strong when properly anchored and ballasted
• Maintenance needs: periodic inspections for membrane wear, seam integrity, and ballast settling

Where It's Most Commonly Used

• Flat or low-slope roofs on homes, multi-family buildings, and commercial structures
• Areas that favor a cost-effective, durable waterproofing system with a long proven track record
• Situations where a thick, reinforced membrane is advantageous for weather resistance

Historical Background

• BUR traces to the late 19th century as a method to waterproof flat roofs using alternating layers of bitumen-impregnated felts
• Early systems used coal tar and hot asphalt, evolving in the 20th century toward asphalt-based plies and fiberglass reinforcement
• It gained prominence mid-20th century and remained a mainstay for decades, especially on commercial roofs
• Modern BUR blends traditional concepts with improved materials (fiberglass, better surfacing, and reflective coatings) while retaining its multi-ply waterproofing core

Variations of Built-up roofing (BUR) Roofing

Coal Tar BUR

A traditional built-up roof made with alternating layers of asphalt-saturated felt and coal tar pitch. It's known for durability and excellent waterproofing, especially in harsh weather.

• Pros:
• Exceptional weather resistance and long track record.
• Good for heavily trafficked roofs and industrial settings.
• Cons:
• Strong odor during installation; higher VOCs.
• Heavier and less energy-efficient; environmental concerns in some markets.
• Best for:
• Areas with severe weather, flat roofs that need robust performance, and projects where a long history of proven performance matters.

Asphalt BUR (Hot-Mopped)

The classic BUR approach: multiple plies of felt with hot asphalt mopped between layers, finished with a cap sheet (granulated or smooth).

• Pros:
• Time-tested performance and broad contractor familiarity.
• Generally cost-effective and repair-friendly.
• Cons:
• Requires skilled labor and ventilation; heavier roof load.
• Asphalt odors during installation; sensitive to high temperatures.
• Best for:
• Conventional low-slope residential and commercial roofs where a long service life is desired and skilled workmanship is available.

Granulated-cap BUR (Granule-Surfaced)

A variation of BUR where the cap sheet is covered with mineral granules, giving UV protection, color options, and traction.

• Pros:
• Strong UV protection and improved durability against weathering.
• Granules help resist mechanical wear and provide slip resistance.
• Cons:
• Granule loss over time can occur and may require resealing or re-grading.
• Best for:
• Roofs exposed to sun, foot traffic on the roof, and areas where a rugged finish is preferred.

Smooth-surfaced BUR

Cap sheet without mineral granules, leaving a smooth surface.

• Pros:
• Often easier to coat or paint in the future; clean, uniform look.
• Cons:
• Less UV protection; more prone to UV degradation without additional coatings.
• Best for:
• Parapet walls, skylight decks, or retrofit projects where future coatings are planned.

Fiberglass-reinforced BUR (FR-BUR)

Uses fiberglass-reinforced felts instead of organic felts, delivering extra strength and dimensional stability.

• Pros:
• Higher tear resistance and longer-term durability.
• Lighter weight per ply and improved wind uplift resistance.
• Cons:
• Typically higher installation cost; requires quality workmanship.
• Best for:
• Modern low-slope roofs where a strong, durable membrane is a priority and weight is a consideration.

Organic Felt BUR

One of the older BUR options that uses asphalt-saturated organic felt as the reinforcing layer.

• Pros:
• Often lower upfront cost.
• Cons:
• More prone to moisture-related issues and shrinking over time; shorter lifespan than fiberglass options.
• Best for:
• Retrofits where budget is a primary concern and long-term durability is less critical.

Modified Bitumen BUR (MBR) – APP and SBS

A variant that uses polymer-modified asphalt plies (APP or SBS) in place of standard asphalt. Often installed as BUR or as flexible, torch-down systems.

• Pros:
• Greater elasticity and better performance in extreme temperatures.
• Resistant to cracking and thermal movement; good for climate movement and roof expansions.
• Cons:
• Higher cost; some installers use open-flame torches, requiring careful safety practices.
• Best for:
• Roofs with movement, colder climates, and areas where a flexible, durable membrane is valued.

Self-Adhered BUR (Cold-applied)

Plies come with a peel-and-stick adhesive, eliminating hot asphalt or torches during installation.

• Pros:
• Cleaner, faster installation with little to no odor; safer for sensitive sites.
• Great for retrofit projects and tight workspaces.
• Cons:
• Substrate preparation is critical; adhesives can be sensitive to humidity and temperature.
• Best for:
• Re-roofs, occupied buildings, and locations where open flames or strong fumes are a problem.

Pros of Built-up roofing (BUR) Roofing

Durable, multi‑layer protection

• BUR combines several plies (felts or fiberglass sheets) bonded with hot asphalt or coal tar pitch. The layered construction creates redundancy: if one layer is damaged, others keep the roof watertight.
• This multi‑ply design contributes to long-term resilience against everyday wear, hail, and foot traffic during maintenance.

Excellent waterproofing and leak resistance

• The thick, continuous membrane formed by multiple plies provides a robust barrier against water intrusion.
• A cap sheet with mineral granules or gravel adds extra waterproofing protection and shields the asphalt from UV degradation.

Low-slope suitability and versatility

• BUR is specifically well suited for low‑slope or flat roof layouts, where single‑ply membranes may be less forgiving.
• It can be customized to accommodate irregular shapes, penetrations, and various roof geometries without sacrificing performance.

Fire resistance and safety

• When properly installed, BUR roofs often achieve Class A fire ratings, offering strong resistance to flame spread.
• The mineral granule surface also contributes to fire safety by acting as a heat shield.

Wind uplift resistance and durability

• The heavy, multi‑layer construction helps resist wind uplift on exposed edges and parapets.
• Proper installation and ballast (gravel or cap sheet) maximize wind performance in high‑wind areas.

Energy efficiency and heat management

• The gravel or mineral cap sheet can be selected to reflect sunlight, reducing heat absorption in hot climates.
• BUR's insulation and dense build help reduce heat transfer into the attic or living spaces, improving comfort and potentially lowering cooling costs.

Repairability and maintenance ease

• Damaged sections can be repaired or reinforced by adding more plies or applying patches over the cap sheet.
• Local roofers are usually very familiar with BUR repair methods, making spot repairs straightforward and cost‑effective compared to some other systems.

Proven track record and widespread availability

• BUR has decades of performance data and a well-established installation base, giving homeowners confidence in durability and serviceability.
• Replacement materials and skilled installers are widely accessible, making maintenance and upgrades practical over the roof's life.

Sound dampening and thermal stability

• The thick, layered system dampens rain impact noise and helps maintain steadier attic temperatures, contributing to comfort inside the home.

Surface durability and long-term value

• The mineral granule cap sheet protects asphalt from UV degradation, extending the life of the top surface.
• The gravel or mineral surface can also resist foot traffic and minor impacts during maintenance without immediate damage to the underlying structure.

Cons of Built-up roofing (BUR) Roofing

Heavy weight and structural load

• BUR systems are among the heaviest roof coverings. With multiple plies and a gravel ballast, you're adding significant dead load to the roof deck.
• That load can mandate structural checks or reinforcement. If your framing or plywood is aged or undersized, you may face costly upgrading before a BUR install or re-cover.

Complex installation and safety risks

• Installation involves hot asphalt or coal tar, heated with torches. Open flames and hot materials raise fire risks for the roof and nearby areas.
• Fumes, heat, and heavy equipment require experienced crews with proper ventilation and safety gear.
• Weather sensitivity: severe heat, freezing temperatures, rain, or high winds can derail the work or compromise performance.

Maintenance and repair are challenging

• BUR is layered; leaks often show up at seams, flashings, or damaged plies, making pinpoint repairs tricky.
• Patching can be a temporary fix; to restore long-term reliability, you may need to replace sections or re-cover larger areas.
• Access can be difficult on steep or small roofs, increasing labor time and cost for repairs.

Puncture, wear, and capstone issues

• Gravel ballast protects the membrane but can loosen or settle over time, exposing the underlying ply to UV and weather.
• Punctures or penetrations (vents, skylights, HVAC curbs) can require specialty patches and careful resealing to avoid recurring leaks.

Limited lifespan and frequent refresh cycles

• A BUR roof typically lasts longer than some single-ply membranes, but it isn't maintenance-free. Expect re-coating or partial replacement every 15–30 years, depending on climate, traffic, and workmanship.
• Each refresh adds cost and disruption, and older BUR with degraded plies may need more extensive work than a newer installation.

Ponding and drainage sensitivity

• Flat or nearly flat BUR roofs are prone to ponding if drainage isn't perfect. Standing water accelerates wear, softens the asphalt, and can lead to leaks between plies.
• Proper slope, internal drainage cores, and curb flashings are essential; if these aren't optimized, you'll fight leaks longer term.

Climate and installation window constraints

• Ideal installation windows are dry, moderate, and calm. Ultralow temperatures make asphalt brittle; extreme heat can affect workability and longevity.
• In regions with heavy snowfall or ice, BUR work becomes more complicated and risky.

Higher initial cost and lifecycle considerations

• Material, heat-applied installation, and ballast handling translate to higher upfront costs than some modern alternatives.
• Over the life of the roof, you may face multiple cycles of maintenance, re-coating, and potential full or partial re-cover, which can add up.

Asbestos risk on older systems

• Older BUR roofs (historical installations) may contain asbestos-containing felts. If you're dealing with a home built decades ago, assume asbestos could be present and arrange for professional testing and abatement if needed.
• Removal or disturbance of asbestos requires licensed contractors and strict safety protocols; that can significantly raise project costs and complexity.

Aesthetics, UV aging, and surface changes

• Gravel exposure and surface granule loss can make the roof look worn over time.
• UV exposure can cause the surface to fade or become chalky, affecting curb appeal and sometimes leading to higher maintenance needs to preserve waterproofing.

Compatibility and retrofitting limits

• BUR isn't the easiest base for modern upgrades (e.g., certain solar installs or green roof components) without compromising integrity or adding substantial reinforcement.
• If you plan to add new penetrations or equipment, you may face more involved detailing and higher labor costs to ensure weatherproofing remains intact.

Lifespan & Warranty Expectations

Typical lifespan ranges

BUR roofs commonly last about 15-25 years in average residential settings. With newer formulations and proper care, you might see 25-35 years, and in favorable climates with diligent maintenance, 30-40 years is possible in some cases. Factors that push lifespan up or down:

• Climate and weather exposure: high wind, hail, UV exposure shorten life.
• Roof design and substrate: solid decking, proper insulation, and drainage extend life.
• Installation quality: proper ply application, seams, and flashing are crucial.
• Maintenance: regular inspections and timely repairs pay off.

Warranty basics

Most BUR systems come with two layers of warranty: materials and workmanship. Material warranties cover the asphalt or bitumen membrane itself; workmanship warranties cover the contractor's install. They are often separate and can be pro-rated.

What to look for in a BUR warranty

• Duration: typical material warranties range 20–30 years; workmanship warranties 5–10 years.
• Covered conditions: wind uplift, membrane defects, flashing failures when installed correctly.
• Exclusions: ponding water, improper ventilation, UV degradation outside service conditions, punctures from foot traffic, contractor negligence.
• Transferability: some warranties can be transferred to a new owner, often for a fee or with notice.
• Maintenance requirement: most warranties require annual or periodic maintenance inspections and prompt repairs.

Maintenance that preserves life

1. Schedule annual or biannual inspections, after major storms, and after any high-wind event.

2. Keep gutters and scuppers clear to prevent ponding near edges.

3. Repair blisters, cracks, and exposed fasteners promptly; do not delay until leaks appear.

4. Ensure proper flashing around chimneys, vents, skylights, and edges; reseal as needed.

5. Control ponding: ensure a proper slope and drainage, and address any low spots quickly.

Signs it's nearing end of life

• Persistent leaks after rain with no obvious local cause.
• Blisters, widespread cracking, or soft, mushy areas in the surface.
• Cracked or exposed reinforcement fabric at seams.
• Excessive granule loss at your BUR surface or unusual consistency changes in the membrane.
• Extensive edge or flashing deterioration.

Documentation to keep

• Copy of warranty terms and coverage dates.
• Date of installation and inspection reports.
• Records of any repairs and the photos from those repairs.

When to plan for replacement

• If you're routinely repairing leaks in multiple areas, or if your roof is over 25 years old, start a replacement plan with at least two estimates.
• Consider climate and HOA or code requirements that may affect your options.
• A replacement can often improve energy efficiency, insulation, and overall home protection.

Installation Considerations

Substrate readiness

• Inspect the roof deck for rot, moisture, or delaminated plywood/OSB. Replace damaged areas before BUR goes on.
• Remove existing roofing and clean the surface so felts can bond properly.
• Confirm the deck can bear BUR's weight and that any structural issues are addressed.
• Ensure a flat, smooth surface; fill gaps or high spots that could telegraph through the final layer.

Weather and timing

• Plan for dry, moderate conditions. Avoid rain, high humidity, or freezing temps during installation.
• Ideal window: several consecutive dry days with steady temperatures that keep asphalt workable but not dangerously hot.
• Beware dew or overnight moisture; they can hinder adhesion and cause blisters.

Material selection and compatibility

• BUR systems usually use 3–4 plies over a base sheet, plus a cap sheet. The exact ply count depends on climate and roof use.
• Base and intermediate plies are mineral-surfaced or felt; the cap sheet provides protection and later-gravel options.
• Choose asphalt type and cap options compatible with flashings, penetrations, and any existing membranes.
• Finishes include gravel ballast or a reflective cap sheet. Gravel adds durability and gravel retention; reflective caps can reduce cooling loads in hot climates.

Application methods

• Hot-mopped BUR uses heated asphalt applied with mops or rollers; traditional and very durable but requires skilled labor and safety controls.
• Cold-applied or self-adhesive BUR membranes are available for retrofit or lighter-duty installations; they're easier to handle but require careful surface prep.
• For homeowners, expect a professional crew for hot-mopped systems; follow manufacturer instructions to the letter if pursuing any DIY option.

Flashing, parapets, and details

• Plan for all penetrations (vents, pipes, skylights) with proper flashing and counterflashing.
• Parapet walls should be flashed continuously to prevent edge leaks; coordinate flashing at corners and terminations.
• Chimneys, vents, and outlets need specialized termination details to prevent water ingress.

Drainage, ventilation, and condensation

• Ensure a small but crucial slope toward drainage paths; flat decks without slope can trap water under the BUR.
• Adequate attic or roof deck ventilation helps prevent condensation and reduces heat buildup under the membrane.
• Keep drainage outlets clear after installation and verify water shedding during test rain events.

Safety and access

• Use fall protection at all times; harnesses, guardrails, and proper ladder setup are essential.
• Be mindful of hot asphalt surfaces and rolled felts; wear gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection.
• Maintain an organized work area to keep tools away from roof edges and ensure clear egress routes.

Maintenance and inspections

• After installation, inspect for blisters, exposed cap sheet, or loose gravel after heavy rain or wind.
• Keep gravel evenly distributed to protect the BUR surface; replace gravel as needed.
• Schedule periodic inspections every 2–3 years to catch wear, punctures, or flashing deterioration early.

When to hire a professional

• BUR installation is a specialized, potentially hazardous job best left to licensed roofers.
• A pro ensures proper ply layering, flashing detail, ballast or cap choices, and code compliance, saving you future headaches and leaks.

Maintenance & Repair

Maintenance guide for Built-up roofing (BUR) roofing

• Schedule and inspections
• Do a quick visual check twice a year (spring and fall) and after major storms.
• Look for blisters, splits, membrane ridges, or any lifted edges near vents, skylights, or penetrations.
• Clean and clear
• Keep the surface free of leaves, branches, and debris that can trap moisture or cause ponding.
• Make sure drainage outlets and scuppers are clean and free-flowing.
• Gravel ballast care
• BUR roofs often use gravel as ballast. Check for excessive loss of gravel, bare patches, or exposed felt.
• Reballast or reseed as needed to protect the surface from UV exposure.
• Sealant and penetrations
• Inspect around flashings, vents, skylights, and plumbing stacks. Reseal small gaps with compatible roofing sealant before they worsen.
• Ensure fasteners and collars are secure; replace any corroded or loose components.
• Top-coat and aging
• The asphalt/felt surface can dry out over time. Consider a re-coat or reseal every 5–10 years, depending on climate, foot traffic, and sun exposure.
• In hot climates, more frequent maintenance may be needed to prevent cracking and loss of flexibility.
• Foot traffic and access
• Limit heavy foot traffic on BUR surfaces. Use walk pads or boards when you must traverse the roof.
• Safety and documentation
• Always follow safety guidelines and use fall protection when inspecting or working on a roof.
• Keep a simple maintenance log: date, observations, actions taken, and next review date.
• DIY vs. pro repairs
• Small patches and resealing can be DIY with proper materials, but large leaks, delamination, or core damage usually needs a licensed roofer.

What problems to look for by age of BUR roof

• 0–5 years
• Blisters or air pockets indicating trapped moisture.
• Minor surface cracking from weathering or installation quirks.
• Light granule loss at the surface near edges or vents.
• 6–10 years
• Increased gravel loss and exposed nominal surface.
• Patches or seams showing signs of movement or seam separation.
• Early signs of mildew or algae in shaded areas; check drainage flow.
• 11–20 years
• Widespread minor cracking, delamination between plies, or soft spots.
• Ridges, loose flashings, or water staining inside gutters or around penetrations.
• Ponding water in low spots due to edge settling or poor drainage.
• 20+ years
• Extensive cracking, multiple leaks, and significant delamination.
• Structural deck issues indicated by persistent leaks or sagging parapets.
• Gravel ballast largely gone, exposed felt, or widespread surface deterioration.

When to repair Built-up roofing (BUR) roofing with cost estimates

• Small, localized leak or crack repair
• What it covers: patching a small area around a penetration or seam.
• Estimated cost: $200–$600 (materials + minor labor).
• Moderate repair (several patches, reseal around penetrations)
• What it covers: several patches and resealing around vents, skylights, or edge seams.
• Estimated cost: $600–$1,500.
• Major repair (delamination, large area patching, edge repairs)
• What it covers: larger sections, re-flashing, or replacing compromised felt/mesh in a limited zone.
• Estimated cost: $1,500–$4,000.

When to replace Built-up roofing (BUR) roofing with cost estimates

• Indications for replacement
• Widespread wear, frequent leaks, or delamination across large areas.
• Significant ponding, extensive top-coat loss, or compromised deck.
• Replacement cost ranges
• Typical installed cost: roughly $5–$12 per square foot, depending on roof size, ply count, ballast, and substrate.
• For a 1,000 sq ft roof: approximate total $5,000–$12,000.
• Factors that affect price: number of plies, insulation, decking condition, accessibility, and local labor rates.
• What you get with replacement
• A refreshed system, often including a new vapor barrier, updated insulation options, and re-sealing around penetrations.
• Improved energy performance and reduced risk of future leaks when done with quality materials and proper flashing.